Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Patagonia

Brace yourself for a long blog post:

The final trip I took in Argentina was to Patagonia, in the south. I went with two friends, and we planned a week-long trip, stopping at El Chaltén, El Calafate, and Ushuaia. It was an absolutely amazing trip, and quite possibly my favorite trip I took this semester. It was a great way to end the semester!

On the first day, we flew in to El Calafate, and then took a 3 hour bus ride to El Chaltén, which is Argentina’s newest city (founded in 1985) and home to the best trekking in Argentina (according to my Lonely Planet guidebook). The bus ride was beautiful, with a constant, breathtaking view of the mountains surrounding us. After we arrived in El Chaltén, we checked into our hostel and went and ate dinner with a cool little restaurant that had cool signs and pictures hanging all over, and the waiter there was super impressed with our Spanish – he said we sounded like natives! We think he was just trying to get a bigger tip, but it was still nice to hear.

On the second day, we went hiking. We hiked the Fitz Roy trail, which is an 8 hour, 25 km/15 mi trail that went uphill pretty much the whole way. It was pretty intense! However, it was insanely beautiful. The mountains were picturesque, with snow on the peaks. The trail took us through the mountains to the Fitz Roy overlook. The Fitz Roy is the largest mountain in El Chaltén, and it’s certainly a sight to see. With the clouds hanging around its peak, it almost looks like a volcano – that’s actually where the name of El Chaltén came from. The natives thought that it was a volcano, so in their native language (I don’t remember what it was called) “El Chaltén” means the ash that surrounds a volcano. We continued on the trail, through trees and across streams and up and down the mountain, until we came to a sign that said “Danger: must be in good physical condition to continue on this trail”. We kept on going, and we soon found out the reason for that sign: the trail was super, super steep, and kept going and going. You kept thinking you’d seen the top, but then you get there and realize you’re not even close. It was super difficult, and what made it more difficult was the fact that there were a bunch of old people flying up this trail, passing us with ease while we were barely able to breathe. However, we eventually made it up to the top, and it was totally worth it. We climbed over the top and were greeted with a view of a lake nestled in a crater-ish thing between several mountains, which were covered with snow. It was so peaceful and serene, and there are no words I can use to adequately describe how beautiful it was. We sat up there, ate lunch, rested, enjoyed the view, and took lots of pictures. Eventually it was time to begin the long trek back. After several hours, we arrived back at the hostel, completely exhausted but very happy. We cooked dinner, showered, and went to bed early, ready for another day of hiking.

On the third day, we woke up super sore from our previous hike. We still wanted to take advantage of all the trails in El Chaltén (and the nature that is nonexistent in Buenos Aires) so we decided to do two short trails: the Mirador de los Cóndores and the Mirador de las Águilas. These were about an hour each, and took us up to a place where we had a panoramic view of the city and the surrounding mountains. Again, it was very peaceful and tranquil there. We hopped on a bus that evening to go back to El Calafate and begin the next leg of our trip.

Our stay in El Calafate began with a hike around the Laguna Nimez to go birdwatching on the fourth day of our trip. There were tons of birds around – even flamingos! I must say I never expected to see flamingos in Patagonia, but I did! I also found snipes, which do exist! I guess snipe hunting might actually be a real thing then. It was super windy this day, making it a little bit chilly. Overall, Patagonia wasn’t as cold as I expected it to be. We wore layers, but we did so much hiking that we stayed toasty. After hiking around the lake, we went shopping in the city for awhile. We picked up several gifts for family and friends at home, but the best part was that we discovered a pastry called a “cañoncito”. It had dough kind of like a croissant but a little different, and it was stuffed with dulce de leche. It was so good we had to return to this confitería the next day to get more! After shopping, we went back to the hostel and at an asado with other people staying there. It was super delicious, and it never ended – they just kept bringing out more and more meat, and they looked so sad when we told them we couldn’t eat any more! With our bellies full and our bodies tired from hiking, we went to bed.

On the fifth day, we went to go visit the most popular attraction in El Calafate: the glacier Perito Moreno.  We didn’t actually walk on it, but we went to the National Park area, where they had metal walkways set up around it, so you could walk around it and look at it. They also had a boat tour that takes you up super close to the glacier, which we did. It was so impressive, and so huge. It made me feel very small. Every so often, small chunks would fall off of the glacier, which sounded like thunder, and splashed into the water below. It was quite the sight to see! My friends and I had gotten very little sleep during this trip, so we had a moment of slap-happiness walking around the glacier, making it even more fun. After the glacier, we returned to the confitería we found to eat more cañoncitos, then bought pasta and made mac ‘n cheese for dinner, which was the first time I’d had mac ‘n cheese since being in Argentina! We finished up our last night in El Calafate with our typical dessert of fruit and dulce de leche.

On the sixth day, we left El Calafate to go to Ushuaia aka the end of the world. It’s the southernmost city in the world (before Antarctica), so it rightfully gets the name “el fin del mundo”. It’s beautiful there. It’s a tiny city right on the coast, with mountains all around. I think this was the part of Patagonia I was most excited to visit, because we went to go see penguins! We took a boat tour that took us around Ushuaia. We saw an island with cormorants (a type of birds), another with sea lions, and then one with Magellinic and Gentoo penguins! The boat got super close to the island (we couldn’t get off on the island and walk around – there’s only one company that’s allowed to do that) and we got to watch the penguins waddle around the beach for awhile. There were a couple who would swim up close to the boat and then speed away, like the scene from Finding Nemo where they touch the “butt”. They were so adorable!  I really wanted to take a couple home with me, but I don’t think I had enough room in my suitcase for that. This was the highlight of the Patagonia trip for me.

On the seventh day, we went to the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego to do some hiking. It was beautiful, and despite the fact that we walked on a often-traveled trail it felt like we were the only ones who had been to this part of the world. It was so quiet and tranquil. The trail started by a lake, then would wind through some trees for awhile, then would pop out on a small, rocky beach, then go back in the trees. It kept this up the whole way. We met someone from Holland and someone from Denmark on the trail, and we all stopped on one of the beaches to take a break and drink some mate. It was so serene and peaceful, drinking mate on the beach with mountains in the background. We finished that hike, ate a late lunch, then headed back to the hostel. The week had caught up to us, and we were exhausted. We rested for awhile, then went out to a restaurant to try some Patagonian food. I had lamb, which was pretty good! I’d never tried lamb before coming to Argentina, but I’ve eaten it a couple times and I like it. We went to bed early, ready for one more day in Patagonia.

On the eighth and final day in Patagonia, we decided to explore the town some more. Our flight left in the evening, so we didn’t really have time to go hike some other trails, but we did some exploring! We walked by the waters and discovered some yummy cafes. It’s a really cute, colorful city. We were all pretty tired, so we just wanted to do something chill. Eventually we went to the airport, and went to head back to Buenos Aires, with some delay (it wouldn’t be Argentina if everything went smoothly!) The BsAs airport we were originally supposed to fly into got changed to the international one that’s super far away, which was annoying. We found out they did that because they had to switch to a bigger plane – however we got on that plane, and it was only half full, if that. It was one of the bigger, international planes that have 8 seats in a row and the tv screens built into the seats. It was a nicer plane than the international ones I flew to/from the US and BsAs! It was such a waste. We got there eventually, hopped on a shuttle that took us to the original airport, and we took a taxi home from there (much cheaper than a taxi from the international one!). We finally got home around 2 AM. Traveling was a pain, but it was totally worth it.

I’m so glad I got the chance to travel to Patagonia! It was definitely a trip of a lifetime, and I got to spend it with great friends. I definitely want to go back someday to see more of it, because it’s huge and there’s so much I didn’t get to see.

I took TONS of pictures (mostly of mountains) on this trip, so here are a few of my favorites: 
 Beginning of the Fitz Roy trail
 Hiking the Fitz Roy trail
 Fitz Roy
 Selfie!




 Lago de los Tres, which was the end of the Fitz Roy trail and absolutely beautiful.


 Laguna Nimez
 Perito Moreno Glacier

 Penguins in Ushuaia

 Andes

 Hiking in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego
 Ushuaia
 Argentine flag at a stop on the bus ride from El Calafate to El Chaltén
 Laguna Nimez
 Perito Moreno Glacier
 Perito Moreno Glacier
 Penguins in Ushuaia

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